19.6.09

Euro-Pro 7500XH Mechanical Sewing Machine


Offering 42 stitch functions and loads of features for ease, simplicity, and flexibility, this heavy-duty machine sews all fabrics, from multiple layers of denim to delicate silks.

Features include a one-motion threading system with automatic tension; reverse sewing for locking seam ends and reinforcing stitches; adjustable stitch length and width; and an infinitely adjustable needle position for attaching zippers and top stitching.

Product MPN
MPN: 7500XH
Key Features
Sewing Machine Type: Mechanical
No. of Built-In Stitches: 42
Threading: Manual
Thread Cutting: Manual
Additional Features: Carry Handle
Technical Features
Easy Button Hole: With Easy Button Hole
LCD Design Screen: Without LCD Design Screen
Direct Computer Interface: Without Direct Computer Interface

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Singer Featherweight Sewing Machines


Please take a very close look at the faceplate on this machine. Yes, it's the very earliest of the scroll-plate designs, indicating that this machine was one of the first produced at the main factory in Clydebank, Scotland.

First a little history.
The Featherweight had been produced in the USA pre-WWII, but it was only after the war that two short-run batches of just 500 machines each were produced in the UK to test the European market. And this machine is from that second batch, making it actually the 721st machine actually built at the famous Clydebank factory.

And it has survived so well.
The early-style decals are totally intact and there really is just a minimum of light pin marks on the base. One thing that I'm sure - the Featherweight cognoscenti will notice - the bobbin winder has been replaced with a later version. It should have the chrome-plated wheel and, of course, this will be put right during the machine's exhaustive workshop time. A superb machine and a little bit of history into the bargain.Chrome, as on all my Featherweights, is in perfect condition.
Good solid, strong box with zero odor.

Machine comes with a range of attachments/feet, a bound photocopy of the original full-size handbook and a packet of Schmetz needles. Fully cleaned inside and out, serviced and sew tested before leaving the workshop. Electrically tested for your safety. Pictures are of the actual machine. Any bright marks are from the flash - all flaws are always described in full.

Price includes comprehensive insured air shipping to your door
This machine. as with all other Featherweights I sell, comes with three vital pieces of special documentation. 1) A certificate giving Singer's official statement of manufacturing date. 2) A guarantee that the machine contains no reproduction parts. 3) A dated certificate of electrical safety

Sewing With Leather and Suede

Once you've decided to sew with real or fake leather or suede, the next step is knowing how to choose the correct leather or suede for your project.

While patterns usually indicate fabric measured by the yard, most leather is sold by the square foot. To calculate the number of square feet you'll need for your project multipy the suggested yardage on the pattern for 54 inch wide fabric by 13 1/2, the number of square feet in a piece of 36" x 54" fabric.

Multipy the yardage for 45" wide fabric by 11 1/2, and by nine for 36" wide fabric. Next add approximately 15 percent to allow for waste. The size of each skin in square feet is generally marked on the back of each skin. Suede is simply the inside layer of a cowhide, pig or lambskin with a napped finish and the same rules of measurement apply.

You might also consider using a synthetic leather or suede for your project as they can be real bargains at usually less than half the cost of natural leathers.

Before making your decision consult the following list outlining the characteristics of various real and synthetic leathers:

** COWHIDE - Whole cowhides are available in large sizes measuring from 20 to 25 square feet. Garments such as coats, pants and jackets can be made from these full hides. Half hides or sides can also be purchased for smaller projects such as hats, handbags or belts. Cowhide comes in heavy and medium weights and offers a wide range of colors and finishes.

** PIGSKIN - Pigskin is a light to medium-weight leather that comes in both sueded and non-sueded finishes and is available in a wide variety of colors. Pigskins are usually small, about 5 to 7 square feet, so they are generally used for smaller items such as handbags, belts or trims.

** LAMBSKIN - Lambskin is similar in texture to cowhide although finer. The average lambskin measures about 6 to 9 square feet and is generally more expensive than cowhide. Also available in many colors, lambskin can be used for a variety of garments such as dresses, skirts, coats, jackets, slippers, handbags and hats.

** SYNTHETIC LEATHER - Usually produced as a medium-weight fabric, synthetic leather is commonly made with a polyurethane face and a knit or woven backing. Available in a wide variety of colors and finishes, it can be used for any garment or craft project in place of real skins.

** SYNTHETIC SUEDE - Synthetic suedes come in a variety of weights and colors and are typically more expensive than synthetic leathers. Lighter weights are commonly used for vests, dresses, skirts, jackets and shirts while the heavier weights are good for pants, jackets and coats.

** SNAKESKIN - Smaller snakeskins are usually more delicate than the larger varieties. The color of snakeskins varies widely and the glossy finish generally comes from a thin layer of varnish or plastic used to help protect the skin. Because snakeskins can be fragile they are used mostly for small items such as belts, handbags and collars.

** SYNTHETIC SNAKESKIN - Similar to synthetic leathers, pseudo snakeskins have a fabric backing which makes them less fragile than real snakeskins.

Sewing with leather, suede and snakeskin can be a real joy as they are the oldest and most luxurious of all natural materials. Selecting the proper medium for your project will help you to create a garment or accessory that you can be proud of for years to come!

By S. Denise Hoyle

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Sewing Room Salvage - Save and Sew

A collection of sewing room salvage items should be an organized part of your sewing room. Fabric scraps, buttons, zippers, ribbons, yarn and trimmings should be systematically saved so you don't waste time searching for them, nor spend extra money replacing something you have but cannot find.

Over the past 30 years we've talked about the importance of removing all the buttons, zippers, trims and the like from old clothes that are being discarded, and many people are doing that. The problem comes with not having an organized "system" for saving the items.

The "box" is too small, or the "drawer" is so full of assorted items that someone would spend the entire day trying to "sort through" the things that were all simply dumped into the drawer.

In addition, the fabric scraps themselves can become a real problem - the scraps are too big to throw away (such as having perhaps 1/4 yard or 1/2 yard extra, or nice big sections of pieces left after cutting out the pattern), and if you do a lot of sewing, those "scraps" can add up to a lot of fabric.

The solution to "sewing room salvage" is simple. Make a list of the items that you know you normally save, then go to a local store and purchase an assortment of sizes of the clear plastic containers - be sure to get a large one for the fabric then various other sizes for the other salvage items. Take a day and sort through all the boxes and drawers of "stuff", and separate all the items - zippers, buttons, appliques,lace, etc. and put each into its own container.

The fabric scraps should be rolled neatly, then tied, and if possible a small piece of paper attached to each stating the approximate amount of fabric left. NOTE: if saving the fabric from the discarded clothing, be sure that only CLEAN fabric is saved, and I would recommend separating the used fabric into categories, such as "denim", "cotton" or "flannel", in order to make it easier later on, if a project requires denim fabric, for example, all the pieces of that type fabric would be together.

When cutting buttons from a shirt or dress, be sure to string them together, and not just dump them into the box, so it will be easier to know exactly how many buttons you have of that particular type when needed, and not have to dump the box and sort through them to find buttons of the same size and color.

An empty mint container, such as an "Altoid" container works very well for snaps, hooks and eyes, beads, and could be a "starter" for buttons, until it gets full, and you'd need to substitute a larger container for the buttons.

If you don't have enough shelf space to keep all the smaller boxes together in an organized fashion, it might be a good idea to purchase a larger box that would hold all of the small containers. By keeping all the "salvage" containers together, it's easy to look through them for necessary items before you head out to the fabric store and spend money on items that you already have.

By Sarah J. Doyle

" I want to THANK YOU..., let's coming back again "

18.6.09

8 Steps to Optimize Your Sewing Time

1. Be prepared

Gather and purchase all of the supplies necessary to complete your sewing or craft project ahead of time. Having to stop in the middle of the project in order to run out and get a forgotten essential item is time consuming and irritating.

2. Check the threading of your sewing machine

Double check the threading of your sewing machine to prevent immediate stitching problems. Breaking thread or skipped stitches right off the bat can cause you to lose interest in the project, not to mention the time lost in fixing the problem. And speaking of thread, always use a good quality thread. "Cheap" thread will fray, break and cause knotting of the thread while sewing.

3. Use the correct needles for the project

It is a mistake to simply use the same needle for everything you sew until it breaks. Some fabrics require a fine needle while heavier duck type or denim fabrics require a heavier needle. Keep a supply of assorted machine needles handy so you'll have the correct needle for the fabric you'll be using. In addition, if you hit a pin, you should immediately change the needle. A bent needle, even if only "slightly" bent or nicked can cause skipped stitches and can quite possibly cause damage to your fabric.

4. Cut the fabric carefully

All pattern pieces have grainline markings. The grainline should run parallel with the length of the fabric. If you simply lay the pattern pieces anywhere on the fabric, ignoring the grain- lines, the finished garment will not hang right. The extra few minutes spent laying the pattern pieces correctly and cutting the seam lines precisely will result in a professional looking garment you will be proud of.

5. Practice unusual or new techniques

If your project or garment includes a technique you are not familiar with, or haven't done in quite some time, such as buttonholes or flat felled seams, practice on a piece of extra fabric. It would be best to make two or three practice samples before actually sewing on the garment itself.

6. Clip all threads as you sew

It only takes a second to clip the stitches from the beginning and end of the seams. If you wait until the garment is finished it will become a chore and you may be tempted to leave them, resulting in an unprofessional looking garment. Be sure to have a waste basket handy, or tape a small lunch bag to the side of your sewing machine table in which to toss the threads after clipping.

7. Press seams as you work

Pressing the seams during the sewing process will produce a more professional looking garment, and will also make it easier to sew the seams that will "cross" any of the seams already sewn. Gently open the seams and press flat. You will save time if you sew several seams, then press them all at once, before moving on to the next step.

8. Clean the sewing area

Clean up the sewing area after each project. A great motto for your sewing/craft area is "a place for everything and everything in its' place". Put things away - left over fabric in a scrap box or drawer, scissors, pins and thread back in the drawer. The sewing room will look much better and an organized sewing area is much more inviting than a messy, piled up area with only a "path" to the sewing machine.

By Sarah J. Doyle

" I want to THANK YOU..., let's coming back again "
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