Euro-Pro 7500XH Mechanical Sewing Machine

Offering 42 stitch functions and loads of features for ease, simplicity, and flexibility, this heavy-duty machine sews all fabrics, from multiple layers of denim to delicate silks.

Features include a one-motion threading system with automatic tension; reverse sewing for locking seam ends and reinforcing stitches; adjustable stitch length and width; and an infinitely adjustable needle position for attaching zippers and top stitching.

Product MPN
MPN: 7500XH
Key Features
Sewing Machine Type: Mechanical
No. of Built-In Stitches: 42
Threading: Manual
Thread Cutting: Manual
Additional Features: Carry Handle
Technical Features
Easy Button Hole: With Easy Button Hole
LCD Design Screen: Without LCD Design Screen
Direct Computer Interface: Without Direct Computer Interface

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Singer Featherweight Sewing Machines

Please take a very close look at the faceplate on this machine. Yes, it's the very earliest of the scroll-plate designs, indicating that this machine was one of the first produced at the main factory in Clydebank, Scotland.

First a little history.
The Featherweight had been produced in the USA pre-WWII, but it was only after the war that two short-run batches of just 500 machines each were produced in the UK to test the European market. And this machine is from that second batch, making it actually the 721st machine actually built at the famous Clydebank factory.

And it has survived so well.
The early-style decals are totally intact and there really is just a minimum of light pin marks on the base. One thing that I'm sure - the Featherweight cognoscenti will notice - the bobbin winder has been replaced with a later version. It should have the chrome-plated wheel and, of course, this will be put right during the machine's exhaustive workshop time. A superb machine and a little bit of history into the bargain.Chrome, as on all my Featherweights, is in perfect condition.
Good solid, strong box with zero odor.

Machine comes with a range of attachments/feet, a bound photocopy of the original full-size handbook and a packet of Schmetz needles. Fully cleaned inside and out, serviced and sew tested before leaving the workshop. Electrically tested for your safety. Pictures are of the actual machine. Any bright marks are from the flash - all flaws are always described in full.

Price includes comprehensive insured air shipping to your door
This machine. as with all other Featherweights I sell, comes with three vital pieces of special documentation. 1) A certificate giving Singer's official statement of manufacturing date. 2) A guarantee that the machine contains no reproduction parts. 3) A dated certificate of electrical safety

Sewing With Leather and Suede

Once you've decided to sew with real or fake leather or suede, the next step is knowing how to choose the correct leather or suede for your project.

While patterns usually indicate fabric measured by the yard, most leather is sold by the square foot. To calculate the number of square feet you'll need for your project multipy the suggested yardage on the pattern for 54 inch wide fabric by 13 1/2, the number of square feet in a piece of 36" x 54" fabric.

Multipy the yardage for 45" wide fabric by 11 1/2, and by nine for 36" wide fabric. Next add approximately 15 percent to allow for waste. The size of each skin in square feet is generally marked on the back of each skin. Suede is simply the inside layer of a cowhide, pig or lambskin with a napped finish and the same rules of measurement apply.

You might also consider using a synthetic leather or suede for your project as they can be real bargains at usually less than half the cost of natural leathers.

Before making your decision consult the following list outlining the characteristics of various real and synthetic leathers:

** COWHIDE - Whole cowhides are available in large sizes measuring from 20 to 25 square feet. Garments such as coats, pants and jackets can be made from these full hides. Half hides or sides can also be purchased for smaller projects such as hats, handbags or belts. Cowhide comes in heavy and medium weights and offers a wide range of colors and finishes.

** PIGSKIN - Pigskin is a light to medium-weight leather that comes in both sueded and non-sueded finishes and is available in a wide variety of colors. Pigskins are usually small, about 5 to 7 square feet, so they are generally used for smaller items such as handbags, belts or trims.

** LAMBSKIN - Lambskin is similar in texture to cowhide although finer. The average lambskin measures about 6 to 9 square feet and is generally more expensive than cowhide. Also available in many colors, lambskin can be used for a variety of garments such as dresses, skirts, coats, jackets, slippers, handbags and hats.

** SYNTHETIC LEATHER - Usually produced as a medium-weight fabric, synthetic leather is commonly made with a polyurethane face and a knit or woven backing. Available in a wide variety of colors and finishes, it can be used for any garment or craft project in place of real skins.

** SYNTHETIC SUEDE - Synthetic suedes come in a variety of weights and colors and are typically more expensive than synthetic leathers. Lighter weights are commonly used for vests, dresses, skirts, jackets and shirts while the heavier weights are good for pants, jackets and coats.

** SNAKESKIN - Smaller snakeskins are usually more delicate than the larger varieties. The color of snakeskins varies widely and the glossy finish generally comes from a thin layer of varnish or plastic used to help protect the skin. Because snakeskins can be fragile they are used mostly for small items such as belts, handbags and collars.

** SYNTHETIC SNAKESKIN - Similar to synthetic leathers, pseudo snakeskins have a fabric backing which makes them less fragile than real snakeskins.

Sewing with leather, suede and snakeskin can be a real joy as they are the oldest and most luxurious of all natural materials. Selecting the proper medium for your project will help you to create a garment or accessory that you can be proud of for years to come!

By S. Denise Hoyle

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Sewing Room Salvage - Save and Sew

A collection of sewing room salvage items should be an organized part of your sewing room. Fabric scraps, buttons, zippers, ribbons, yarn and trimmings should be systematically saved so you don't waste time searching for them, nor spend extra money replacing something you have but cannot find.

Over the past 30 years we've talked about the importance of removing all the buttons, zippers, trims and the like from old clothes that are being discarded, and many people are doing that. The problem comes with not having an organized "system" for saving the items.

The "box" is too small, or the "drawer" is so full of assorted items that someone would spend the entire day trying to "sort through" the things that were all simply dumped into the drawer.

In addition, the fabric scraps themselves can become a real problem - the scraps are too big to throw away (such as having perhaps 1/4 yard or 1/2 yard extra, or nice big sections of pieces left after cutting out the pattern), and if you do a lot of sewing, those "scraps" can add up to a lot of fabric.

The solution to "sewing room salvage" is simple. Make a list of the items that you know you normally save, then go to a local store and purchase an assortment of sizes of the clear plastic containers - be sure to get a large one for the fabric then various other sizes for the other salvage items. Take a day and sort through all the boxes and drawers of "stuff", and separate all the items - zippers, buttons, appliques,lace, etc. and put each into its own container.

The fabric scraps should be rolled neatly, then tied, and if possible a small piece of paper attached to each stating the approximate amount of fabric left. NOTE: if saving the fabric from the discarded clothing, be sure that only CLEAN fabric is saved, and I would recommend separating the used fabric into categories, such as "denim", "cotton" or "flannel", in order to make it easier later on, if a project requires denim fabric, for example, all the pieces of that type fabric would be together.

When cutting buttons from a shirt or dress, be sure to string them together, and not just dump them into the box, so it will be easier to know exactly how many buttons you have of that particular type when needed, and not have to dump the box and sort through them to find buttons of the same size and color.

An empty mint container, such as an "Altoid" container works very well for snaps, hooks and eyes, beads, and could be a "starter" for buttons, until it gets full, and you'd need to substitute a larger container for the buttons.

If you don't have enough shelf space to keep all the smaller boxes together in an organized fashion, it might be a good idea to purchase a larger box that would hold all of the small containers. By keeping all the "salvage" containers together, it's easy to look through them for necessary items before you head out to the fabric store and spend money on items that you already have.

By Sarah J. Doyle

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8 Steps to Optimize Your Sewing Time

1. Be prepared

Gather and purchase all of the supplies necessary to complete your sewing or craft project ahead of time. Having to stop in the middle of the project in order to run out and get a forgotten essential item is time consuming and irritating.

2. Check the threading of your sewing machine

Double check the threading of your sewing machine to prevent immediate stitching problems. Breaking thread or skipped stitches right off the bat can cause you to lose interest in the project, not to mention the time lost in fixing the problem. And speaking of thread, always use a good quality thread. "Cheap" thread will fray, break and cause knotting of the thread while sewing.

3. Use the correct needles for the project

It is a mistake to simply use the same needle for everything you sew until it breaks. Some fabrics require a fine needle while heavier duck type or denim fabrics require a heavier needle. Keep a supply of assorted machine needles handy so you'll have the correct needle for the fabric you'll be using. In addition, if you hit a pin, you should immediately change the needle. A bent needle, even if only "slightly" bent or nicked can cause skipped stitches and can quite possibly cause damage to your fabric.

4. Cut the fabric carefully

All pattern pieces have grainline markings. The grainline should run parallel with the length of the fabric. If you simply lay the pattern pieces anywhere on the fabric, ignoring the grain- lines, the finished garment will not hang right. The extra few minutes spent laying the pattern pieces correctly and cutting the seam lines precisely will result in a professional looking garment you will be proud of.

5. Practice unusual or new techniques

If your project or garment includes a technique you are not familiar with, or haven't done in quite some time, such as buttonholes or flat felled seams, practice on a piece of extra fabric. It would be best to make two or three practice samples before actually sewing on the garment itself.

6. Clip all threads as you sew

It only takes a second to clip the stitches from the beginning and end of the seams. If you wait until the garment is finished it will become a chore and you may be tempted to leave them, resulting in an unprofessional looking garment. Be sure to have a waste basket handy, or tape a small lunch bag to the side of your sewing machine table in which to toss the threads after clipping.

7. Press seams as you work

Pressing the seams during the sewing process will produce a more professional looking garment, and will also make it easier to sew the seams that will "cross" any of the seams already sewn. Gently open the seams and press flat. You will save time if you sew several seams, then press them all at once, before moving on to the next step.

8. Clean the sewing area

Clean up the sewing area after each project. A great motto for your sewing/craft area is "a place for everything and everything in its' place". Put things away - left over fabric in a scrap box or drawer, scissors, pins and thread back in the drawer. The sewing room will look much better and an organized sewing area is much more inviting than a messy, piled up area with only a "path" to the sewing machine.

By Sarah J. Doyle

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How Do You Know If You're Using The Right Needle?

As we get caught up in trying to get sewing projects completed and move on to the next one in the limited time available it is so very easy just to jump from project to project without giving any thought to whether or not we have the right needle in the sewing machine.

It can be a costly mistake to simply use the same needle for everything you sew until it breaks. The size of the needle you use depends upon the size of the fabric yarns in the fabric. The finer the yarns, the finer the needle needs to be. In general, a needle should be fine enough to penetrate the fabric without marring it, yet have a large enough eye that the thread does not fray or break during the sewing process.

Needle types related to fabric structure are sharp point (regular) for woven fabrics, ball point for knits, and wedge point for leather and vinyl.

The REGULAR SHARP POINT NEEDLE is ideal for all woven fabrics because it helps to produce an even stitch and causes a minimum of fabric puckering. This needle is not recommended for knits, as it has a tendency to "cut" yarns and cause skipped stitches. This needle comes in a wide range of sizes from the finest size 9 to a heavy size 18.

The BALL POINT NEEDLE is specifically designed for knit and elastic fabrics and has a "rounded" point rather than a sharp point. This needle pushes between the fabric yarns rather than "cutting through" the yarns. This needle comes in sizes 9 to 16 and the larger the needle size, the more "rounded" the needle point is.

The WEDGE POINT NEEDLE, which is designed for leather and vinyl, easily pierces these fabrics to make a hole that will close back upon itself. This eliminates unattractive holes in the garment, and also reduces the risk of the stitches tearing the fabric. The wedge point needle comes in sizes 11 to 18. The size 11 needle is designed for soft pliable leathers,while size 18 is designed for heavy or multiple layers of leather or vinyl.

In addition to choosing the right TYPE of needle, it is also important to know the proper needle SIZE for the type of fabric being used. As a general rule you can utilize the following fabric category/needle size information when choosing the needle for your next project.

DELICATE fabrics such as silk, chiffon, voile, fine lace and organdy would need a fine "size 9" needle.

LIGHTWEIGHT fabrics such as synthetic sheers, batiste, taffeta, velvet, stretch fabric, tricot and plastic film would need a "size 11" needle.

MEDIUM WEIGHT fabrics such as gingham, poplin, linen, muslin, chambray, wool crepe, flannel, knits, jersey, wool, chintz, satin, raw silk, wool suiting, stretch fabric and drapery fabrics would need a "size 14" needle.

MEDIUM-HEAVY fabrics such as sail cloth, gabardine, heavy suiting, tweed and heavy drapery fabrics would need a "size 16" needle.

HEAVY fabrics such as denim, overcoatings, ticking, upholstery and canvas fabrics would need a "size 18" needle.

One final needle pointer is always replace dull bent or nicked needles. If you hit a pin, you should immediately change the needle. A bent needle, even if only "slightly" bent or nicked can cause skipped stitches and can easily cause damage to your fabric by tearing the fabric yarns.

By Sarah J. Doyle

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Do It Yourself Sewing Machine Repair

Your sewing machine is a wonderfully useful machine when working properly, a frustrating, confusing monster when it's not. Oddly, a vast majority of machines sent to repair shops for repairs, could be repaired at home with little or no technical knowledge.

The first thing to remember is not to panic! Don't let your frustration get in the way of your good sense. Depending on the type of problem you're having, the following suggestions may be of immediate help to you.

TENSION: As you change projects and start sewing on different weight materials, you should test stitch on a piece of scrap material of the same weight before beginning the actual project so you can adjust your upper tension to that particular fabric. As an example, if you're changing from a denim type fabric to a silky fabric, you would definitely want to make sure the tension is correct and the stitching looks right before you start to sew the garment.

To determine whether the upper tension is too tight or too loose for the fabric you're wanting to use, try the following test. Take a small scrap of the fabric, fold it, and stitch a line ON THE BIAS of the fabric, using different colors of thread in the bobbin and on top. Grasp the bias line of stitching between the thumb and the index finger.

Space the hands about 3 inches apart and pull with an even, quick force until one thread breaks. If the broken thread is the color of the thread in the needle, it means that the upper tension is too tight. If the broken thread is the color of the bobbin thread, the upper tension is too loose. If both threads break together and take more force to break, it means that the tensions are balanced.

BOBBIN: The most probable cause of the lower thread breaking is an improperly wound bobbin. Regardless of where you wind the bobbin, inside the machine, on the top of the handwheel or on the front side near the hand wheel, the basic "bobbin" rules apply.

** Always start with an empty bobbin. Never wind one color over another color.
** Don't wind the bobbin so full that it would be tight and hard to insert into the bobbin case. Most machines have an automatic "shut off" when the bobbin gets full, but if yours does not, be careful not to fill it too full.
** Wind the bobbin evenly across and in level layers.
** Never mix different sizes of thread in the bobbin and on the spool, unless you're doing sewing machine embroidery or some specialty type of sewing. Using different weights of thread on the spool and in the bobbin for general sewing will cause ragged stitches as well as other stitching problems.

NEEDLE: Probably 25% of machine repair jobs I go out on, the only problem was that the needle was put in backwards. I know you're probably saying "I've been sewing most of my life and I know how to put the needle in the machine"; however many times a seamstress will get in a hurry and not give the needle a second thought when putting a new one in the machine. If your machine will not pick up the bottom thread or skips stitches badly, in most cases it's because the needle is in wrong.

Each sewing machine requires that the "flat" side of the needle be put in a specific way - facing the front, the back, etc., depending on your particular make and model. If you have a sewing machine that takes a needle that doesn't have a flat side, you'll notice that each needle has a groove in it where the thread lays as it penetrates the fabric. Depending on whether your machine shuttle system faces to the front or to the left, the groove of the needle will also face front or left.

MACHINE THREADING: An additional area to check for stitching problems is whether the sewing machine is threaded properly. Each machine has a certain sequence for threading, and it only takes one missed step in the sequence to cause your machine to skip stitches. If you're in doubt, take the top thread completely out and start all over again.

Many times it's the small things that cause frustration and loss of sewing time. Taking just a few minutes before starting a project to make sure everything is in order can save hours of "down" time, not to mention frayed nerves and the possibility of having to take the machine to the repair shop unnecessarily.

By Reuben O. Doyle

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Electronic sewing machines

Like mechanical models, electronic sewing machines still use a single motor along with cams and levers to power the needle, but electronic features make it easier to precisely control settings. Stitches are more consistent, and adjustments are easier since they require pushing buttons instead of fiddling with knobs. These sewing machines have many more convenience features than mechanical machines.

Prices for entry-level electronic machines have dropped so much that they are often less expensive than some mechanical machines. Doesn't cost much more than an inexpensive brother or kenmore sewing machine, but it has a lot more features. It has a one-step buttonhole feature, but instead of one style of buttonhole, you can choose from seven styles, including an eyelet or a keyhole-style buttonhole. Stitch settings are displayed on a small lcd screen, and buttons (instead of dials) allow you to change stitch length, width and stitch type.

Electronic sewing machines are quite popular as they have more features than the mechanical sewing machines. Most of the functions in the electronic sewing machines can be activated with just a the push of a button. These machines are equipped with basic chips, stepper motors and a microprocessor. The computerised sewing machines feature different programs that can automatically create designs.

One just has to decide where the pattern should appear on the fabric and the rest is taken care by the machine. Sergers are another type of sewing machines that help to give the garment a tailored and finished look. Many manufacturers make sewing machines and the popular ones are brother sewing machines, singer sewing machines and toyota sewing machines.

Electronic sewing machines are currently the most popular on the market with good reason. These have features such as dozens of automatic stitches and variable speed controls. More electronic sewing machines are sold than any other type in the united states, with janome being the largest manufacturer. Com where you can find a great deal on some of the best janome models, including their de-51244 for only $359.

For beginners or those who want a simpler machine for occasional sewing, visit www. The rex sewing machine plus rx-3300 is on sale for only $149, and is a nice, easy-use machine. While mechanical machines still have a motor, they do not have automatic tension adjustment, but use manual adjustments for this and other elements such as stitch length, tension, etc. Or, if you want to go straight to the high end, check out the husqvarna machines. Usually reserved for industrial or professional use, this company does make some exceptional home sewing machines, including the viking lily 545 for $899.

There are some that can't work properly with certain types of fabrics, especially thicker or heavier ones like denim, wool, or leather. Moreover, considering that electronic sewing machines are far expensive than domestic ones, a sewing machine rating can help you decide whether an electronic sewing equipment is more worthy than domestic sewing machine or that the latter will suffice.

Another reason why sewing machine ratings are ideal is the fact that it's the consumers who make them. These are the people who haven't only checked out the specific model but actually bought and worked with them, completing a number of sewing tasks. These are no press releases, which means you will be provided with not only the strengths of the sewing equipment but also the weaknesses, which you should get ready for. There are actually hundreds of them that are solely meant for sewing machine reviews.

Electronic sewing machines are best for home sewers with their wide range of prices, functions and number of stitches. Computerized sewing machines with precise control enable the users to produce hundreds of different stitches. Users of sewing machines can best evaluate the features and stitching options available with different varieties of machines.

Selecting a sewing machine can be a difficult task if you don`t know about your requirements. Once, you are aware of the purpose you can ask the sales person of the store to help you select the most useful sewing machine for you. Alternatively, you can search required information on the web and read the expert reviews to select the most suitable sewing machine.

By Whoknows

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Sewing Machine Troubleshooting

Solving Sewing Machine Problems

How many times have you been in the middle of a project and your trusted sewing machine has decided it doesn't want to sew? The fun part of sewing is completing our creative inspiration, not fighting the machine!

Many times it is a very simple problem that we overlooked while absorbed in our project. Here is a simple checklist for machine problems. Many things vary by machine and this list is not a complete guide to your sewing machine. Rather it is a guideline to save you an unnecessary trip to the repair shop and a load of frustration. Always refer to your sewing machine manual.

Skipped stitches

* The most likely cause for you machine to skip stitches is the machine needle. If your machine was sewing fine and suddenly decides to skip stitches, change your sewing machine needle.

* That machine needle is a sliver of metal and you may have inadvertently bend it while tugging the fabric or by hitting a straight pin. Learning and understanding sewing machine needles can save you hours of frustration.

* If you find yourself changing the needle often, be sure you are allowing the feed dog to feed the fabric through the machine and that you are not forcing the fabric which can lead to bent needles.

Knotting or breaking thread

* Are you using a quality thread? Most bargain threads throws off excessive lint, have loose fibers and knots which can all effect how your machine forms stitches.

* Check the way your machine is threaded. Completely unthread your sewing machine and re-thread it. Remember to always thread your machine with the presser foot up.

* Check the bobbin and be sure the bobbin is threaded correctly and that the bobbin case is correctly threaded. Be sure the bobbin is in the bobbin case in the correct direction.

* Always watch for bobbin wear, especially on the plastic type of bobbins. If the edges of the plastic are showing abrasions, the size of the bobbin has changed and may be the culprit. Although the size change is minute, it allows the bobbin to wobble in the case and changes the tension.

Helping Hands

* Is it possible that you had some helpful little hands at the sewing machine, while your back was turned? Children may know better then to touch your sewing machine, but all those knobs and buttons can be irresistible.

* Always unplug your machine when you are not using it and children are in the area. It is very simple for them to step on the foot pedal while their small hand is on the needle bed.

Tension Adjustments

* These adjustments vary depending on your machine. The rule of thumb for a turning disk style adjustment is "righty tighty, lefty lucy". The disks are actually help in place by springs and screws, by turning them to the right you are tightening the spring, by turning them to the left you are loosening the spring.

Regular Maintenance

* Have you been so "in to" your projects that you have not taken the time to do basic maintenance on your machine? We all do it, but we shorten the life expectancy of our sewing machine by not properly maintaining it. There is nothing like machine problems to force us to take the time to do basic maintenance that is described in your machine manual.

By Debbie Colgrove,

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Brother CS6000i sewing machine

The Brother CS6000i electronic sewing machine is a step up from an entry-level mechanical machine like the Kenmore 15358 (*est. $120) and offers many more features. A one-step buttonhole with seven different styles (eyelet, keyhole and more) is a plus, and a small LCD screen shows you the stitch settings.

Adjustments are made with buttons, not dials, and it boasts 60 stitches. One particular strength compared to other electronic machines is a generous assortment of presser feet, including a walking foot, which helps feet layers of fabric through the machine at the same rate. User reviews for the Brother CS6000i are excellent.

Craft Magazine's blog, Craftzine, reviews the Brother CS6000i among other mid-range sewing machines, comparing its features. Good Housekeeping does a brief video review of the CS6000i as well. User reviews abound at Amazon.com and Walmart.com, where the Brother CS6000i earns significantly higher-than-average ratings.

* One-step buttonhole
* Consistent stitches
* Seven buttonhole styles
* Basic walking foot attachment included
* Lightweight (13.5 pounds)

Kenmore 15358 sewing machine

The Kenmore 15358 is a reliable, inexpensive mechanical sewing machine, say reviewers. It's purely a mechanical machine, meaning there are no computers or electronics. That means it doesn't sew quite as precisely or predictably as a more expensive electronically controlled machine, but many sewers prefer the simplicity of a mechanical sewing machine.

Compared with something like the Brother CS6000i (*est. $180), the Kenmore 15358 lacks the variety of stitches and functions (for example, the Brother CS6000i has seven types of buttonholes to the Kenmore's one). Still, for beginning sewers and those on a budget, the Kenmore 15358 gets good reviews from owners and professional testers alike.

Consumer Reports includes the Kenmore 15358 sewing machine in its thorough comparative testing, pitting it against others in its category of mechanical sewing machines. Owner reviews at Sears.com give additional insight into the Kenmore 15358's features and performance.

* Easy to use
* One-step buttonhole
* Excellent user manual
* Good for beginners

Tips and Techniques

Here are some common problems and things the operator can check before sending a machine to the technician. These may seem simplistic, but check and re-check them it should save you money.

To oil or not to oil, that is the question.

NO - Yes- Maybe. Oil will not solve stitching problems. In most cases it is far worse for your equipment to over oil than under oil. Indications a machine needs lubrication are squeaks and squeals, grinding, thumping, sluggishness and so forth. If you believe your machine requires lubrication one or two drops is all that is necessary in any one place. The most common place to oil any machine is the hook or shuttle, this area should have one drop of oil every 8-10 hours of machine run time. For a lifetime of service have your machine serviced professionally every one or two years, depending on usage.

Perhaps the two most overlooked parts and without question the two most important parts of any sewing machine are the needle and thread.

Thread: Always use a good quality thread. Those 5 for a dollar spools are no bargain. For the best results on regular sewing machines use cotton covered polyester thread. These combine strength and a nice appearance for topstitching.

For surging or overlocking use a 100 polyester thread in most cases. It's strong and works well for this type of work.

Avoid old thread. Yes thread gets weak with age. I can't tell you how many calls I have for a machine breaking thread and when I get there the thread is on a wooden spool. Thread on these spools is at least 40 years old.

Whenever you experience thread breakage try a couple different spools of thread and see if the problem goes away. Many times it will. Even the best threads have bad runs so always suspect the thread first.

Needles: Dull, bent, wrong size or old needles can create all kinds of problems. Click here to see why you should change your needle often. If your machine all of a sudden starts skipping, or breaking thread or experiencing any kind of stitching problem, change the needle. Be sure to use the correct needle for your machine and use the correct size for the thread and materials being sewn. A needle too large or too small can cause skipped stitches and or broken thread.

Make sure the new needle inserted all the way and is facing the correct way. In most cases, the flat side of the needle faces away from where you insert your bobbin. If the bobbin goes in from the front, then flat side of the needle goes to the rear (away from the operator). There are exceptions to this rule - most notably the Singer models 15-91, 201, 221, and 301. These machines do just the opposite. The flat side of the needle faces the bobbin. If you are in doubt, consult your users manual.
Tension adjustments:
This may be the biggest mystery in the sewing industry. It doesn't need to be. First, an untrained person should never adjust the bobbin tension. This is a very fine and usually tricky adjustment, one best left to the professionals. The good news is once it is set properly it rarely goes out of adjustment by its self.

The upper thread tension is user adjustable, but it usually does not require frequent adjustment. Most of the newer machines have numbers (0-9) on them. The factory setting is usually about # 4. Some have a red dot or some other type of indicator of the preset tension. Always use this setting unless you are doing some sort of special application that requires a different setting - i.e. buttonholes, basting, or any other special operation.

If you are having what you believe to be tension problems, it is often useful to use two different color threads. That way, you can see which one is really giving you the trouble. Just because you see a problem under the fabric does not mean it's a bobbin problem. Usually it's not.

from : http://www.a1sewingmachine.com

Sewing Machine Parts

Learn more about the different parts of a sewing machine.

Belts - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Sewing Machine belts are not as common today as they were in the past. Find information about sewing machine belts here.

Bobbin - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Learn about a sewing machine bobbin here.

Bobbin Case - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Find information about sewing machine bobbin cases here.

Bobbin Winder - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Find a full description and photo's of a sewing machine bobbin winder and information on how a bobbin winder works here.

Foot Pedal - Parts of a Sewing Machine
The foot pedal of a sewing machine comes in different shapes and forms. Find information about sewing machine foot pedals here.

Hand Wheel - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Learn why the hand wheel is on a sewing machine and what it does here.

Light - Parts of a Sewing Machine
The sewing machine light is important.

Motor - Parts of a Sewing Machine
A sewing machine motor may be hidden or may be visible. Learn about sewing machine motors .

Power Cords - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Sewing machine power cords come in a variety of shapes and connect in various ways to the sewing machine.

Presser Foot - Parts of a Sewing Machine
The presser foot is a part of your sewing machine that can be changed and can make a job easy. Find out about sewing machine presser feet here.

Pressure Adjustment - Parts of a Sewing Machine
This adjustment is on almost all sewing machines and most people never touch it. When problems arise, it just may be the solution.

Slide Plate - Parts of a Sewing Machine
The slide plate on a sewing machine protects the bobbin area and gives access to the bobbin. Find information about a sewing machine slide plate .

Spool Holders - Parts of a Sewing Machine
There is more than one way to hold the spool of thread on your sewing machine.

Stitch Length - Parts of a Sewing Machine
The stitch length adjustment on a sewing machine is more than just lengthening and shortening the stitch. Find information about sewing machine stitch length .

Stitch Width & Needle Position Adjustments - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Any sewing machine that has zigzag stitch cpability has a stitch width adjustment and that adjustment can be used for needle position adjustments.

Take-Up Lever - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Sewing machines have many parts and all of them serve a purpose. Find out about the sewing machine take-up lever and what you need to know.

Thread Cutter - Parts of a Sewing Machine
A thread cutter is built into most sewing machines. Find out about sewing machine thread cutters .

Tension Disks - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Sewing machine tension disks are vital to a properly formed stitch. They can be adjusted but keeping them clean also plays a vital role.

Throat Plate and Feed Dog - Parts of a Sewing Machine
Anyone who has looked at a sewing machine has seen these parts but do you know what they do and why they are important.

The History of Sewing Machines

Hand sewing is an art form that is over 20,000 years old. The first sewing needles were made of bones or animal horns and the first thread was made of animal sinew. Iron needles were invented in the 14th century. The first eyed needles appeared in the 15th century.

Birth of Mechanical Sewing
The first possible patent connected to mechanical sewing was a 1755 British patent issued to German, Charles Weisenthal. Weisenthal was issued a patent for a needle that was designed for a machine, however, the patent did not describe the rest of the machine if one existed.

Several Inventors Attempt to Improve Sewing
The English inventor and cabinet maker, Thomas Saint was issued the first patent for a complete machine for sewing in 1790. It is not known if Saint actually built a working prototype of his invention. The patent describes an awl that punched a hole in leather and passed a needle through the hole. A later reproduction of Saint's invention based on his patent drawings did not work.

In 1810, German, Balthasar Krems invented an automatic machine for sewing caps. Krems did not patent his invention and it never functioned well.

Austrian tailor, Josef Madersperger made several attempts at inventing a machine for sewing and was issued a patent in 1814. All of his attempts were considered unsuccessful.

In 1804, a French patent was granted to Thomas Stone and James Henderson for "a machine that emulated hand sewing." That same year a patent was granted to Scott John Duncan for an "embroidery machine with multiple needles." Both inventions failed and were soon forgotten by the public.

In 1818, the first American sewing machine was invented by John Adams Doge and John Knowles. Their machine failed to sew any useful amount of fabric before malfunctioning.

Barthelemy Thimonnier - First Functional Machine & a Riot
The first functional sewing machine was invented by the French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier, in 1830. Thimonnier's machine used only one thread and a hooked needle that made the same chain stitch used with embroidery. The inventor was almost killed by an enraged group of French tailors who burnt down his garment factory because they feared unemployment as a result of his new invention.

Walter Hunt & Elias Howe
In 1834, Walter Hunt built America's first (somewhat) successful sewing machine. He later lost interest in patenting because he believed his invention would cause unemployment. (Hunt's machine could only sew straight steams.) Hunt never patented and in 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for "a process that used thread from two different sources."

Elias Howe's machine had a needle with an eye at the point. The needle was pushed through the cloth and created a loop on the other side; a shuttle on a track then slipped the second thread through the loop, creating what is called the lockstitch. However, Elias Howe later encountered problems defending his patent and marketing his invention.

For the next nine years Elias Howe struggled, first to enlist interest in his machine, then to protect his patent from imitators. His lockstitch mechanism was adopted by others who were developing innovations of their own. Isaac Singer invented the up-and-down motion mechanism, and Allen Wilson developed a rotary hook shuttle.

Isaac Singer Vs Elias Howe - Patent Wars
Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the 1850's, when Isaac Singer built the first commercially successful machine. Singer built the first sewing machine where the needle moved up and down rather than the side-to-side and the needle was powered by a foot treadle. Previous machines were all hand-cranked. However, Isaac Singer's machine used the same lockstitch that Howe had patented. Elias Howe sued Isaac Singer for patent infringement and won in 1854. Walter Hunt's sewing machine also used a lockstitch with two spools of thread and an eye-pointed needle; however, the courts upheld Howe's patent since Hunt had abandoned his patent.

If Hunt had patented his invention, Elias Howe would have lost his case and Isaac Singer would have won. Since he lost, Isaac Singer had to pay Elias Howe patent royalties. As a side note: In 1844, Englishmen John Fisher received a patent for a lace making machine that was identical enough to the machines made by Howe and Singer that if Fisher's patent had not been lost in the patent office, John Fisher would also have been part of the patent battle.

After successfully defending his right to a share in the profits of his invention, Elias Howe saw his annual income jump from three hundred to more than two hundred thousand dollars a year. Between 1854 and 1867, Howe earned close to two million dollars from his invention. During the Civil War, he donated a portion of his wealth to equip an infantry regiment for the Union Army and served in the regiment as a private.

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